The AW24 season at Paris Fashion Week is a big one for debuts and returns. Some of the most exciting and anticipated shows include Ester Manas and Stefano Gallici’s debut for Ann Demeulemeester. 

After taking a short break from the runway last season, creative director and Dazed editor-in-chief IB Kamara was back at PFW with a new collection for Off-White. Sharing that it was the “most personal endeavour for the house that Virgil built”, the collection saw Kamara building on the late founder’s recognisable tropes, putting his own spin on them. 

Here’s everything you need to know.

THE SHOW’S INVITE TEASED THE FUN TO COME

Ahead of the show, guests received a box reading “ASK LEGAL” that upon opening transformed into a full-size Off-White-branded Ludo board – complete with dice and playing tokens. Little did they know, they would be seeing the board again very soon… 

THE SET INVITED GUESTS INTO THE GAME 

On their arrival at Carrousel du Louvre, the invite made more sense. The set was a giant version of the aforementioned Ludo board, with a giant crystallised dice centrepiece and scattered playing pieces that guests perched on to watch the show. On the FROW, Serena Williams, Willow Smith, Ashley Graham, Halle Bailey, and musician Nadiah eagerly awaited Kamara’s return to the runway. 

THE COLLECTION DREW INSPIRATION FROM A TRIP TO JAPAN

Following a trip to Japan, Kamara reflected on the “big influence Americana has had on the country’s culture”, according to the show notes. This led him to looking at the US of A itself, unpacking the melting pot of influences that America is built on and the impact of Black culture on it. 

“This is a collection charged with energy and movement, bursting with vibrancy,” the show notes continued. “In my vision, Off-White stands on its own in a niche of luxury that is not quiet, and not even loud, but playful.”

GENDER EQUALITY WAS MADE CHIC

Presenting both menswear and womenswear, the creative director reflected on equality between the sexes. Softening menswear – by adorning looks with  delicate pastel-coloured butterflies – the womenswear looks were tougher, with military-inspired silhouettes and lots of leather, including sexy thigh-highs. Elsewhere, the looks shared the same ideas, with striped belting, pops of fuzzy green fur, and a recurring star motif designed for both him and her.

THE CASTING WAS MAJOR

The work of casting director Mischa Notcutt, the cast was jam-packed with Black model excellence: Precious Lee, Joan Smalls, and Lineisy Montero. Elsewhere, there were cameo appearances from Mowalola and Ghana’s creative scene was repped by musician Black Sherif and Prince Brefo from fashion collective Free The Youth.

GET THE SHOES BABY 

Featured alongside branded basketballs created in collaboration with sporting goods company Wilson, the AW24 season debuted the instantly iconic Baller sneaker. Available in a variety of colourways – traditional basketball brown, tennis ball green and black, studded with crystals – they were adorned with catchphrases like “AUTOGRAPH HERE” and “FOR ANKLE BREAKERS ONLY”. “What’s more American than basketball?” mused Kamara on what’s sure to be an inescapable street style shoe next season. 

THE SHOW ENDED WITH A FUN FINALE 

Daring attendees not to dance, the finale was soundtracked by Destiny’s Child’s “Bootylicious”. As models rounded the set, they found it more and more difficult, bouncing in their seats as evidenced by Jawara Alleyne on Instagram. Can you blame them?